This very rare tea is grown in the Qimen, or Keemun county of China’s Anhui Province. It is grown on a variety of bush that in early spring sprouts long, tender golden buds. It is one of China’s famous ‘Gongfu’ teas, which means made with great skill. This almost ritualistic process is believed to impart ‘strong fire’ or the ‘enlivening vigour of spring’ to the tea and is only done to teas that will contain great spirit. It is a remarkably labour intensive process that can be carried out only by a tea master. When the long delicate tips have been picked they undergo the withering and rolling process before being tossed in a large bamboo tray 400 times. This is done to oxidise the leaves and begins to turn them red. Where the less prestigious teas would now be rolled by machine, these leaves are roasted in a shallow pan and hand rolled by the tea master. They must be worked around the pan 400 times to match the amount it has been tossed. Then the whole process is repeated a further two times. The resulting tea is wonderfully smooth with a honeysweet, orchid aroma and gentle, sweet chocolate, malty tones with hints of rose. The leaves have a lovely black bloom and the infusion is a clear and brilliant red. I have seen this same tea on sale for over £170 per 100g, which is perhaps a truer reflection of the work that goes into making it. Good in the afternoon or early evening. If you drink this tea without milk it is good for three infusions or more.