Fenghuang or ‘Phoenix Mountain’ is located in China’s Guangdong Province. Dancong, meaning ‘single bush’ is the highest of four grades of oolong grown around this mountain, the best being found on Wu Dong Peak. This is one of the ten peaks that make up the mountain and these peaks play their part in creating a perfect environment for producing high quality tea by protecting the area from the cold of Northern China and the bad weather from the South China sea. Phoenix Song Zhong Wang is one type from over eighty varieties of tea tree found in the area, each producing a tea with its own unique character. Important factors in producing a great Dancong tea are altitude and soil, which must have a large amount of stones in it. However, the most important of all is the method of production. In examples of the very best tea, such as the one you are trying, this will be carried out by a tea master. A true master will bring out the ‘four spirits’ of beautiful appearance, glossy coloured leaf, rich aroma and sweet taste. Leaf picking time is very important for Phoenix teas. The very small amount of leaves these centuries old trees will yield are skilfully picked at midday, when the leaves will be at their juiciest. It must be a fine afternoon but without strong sunlight, and once picked the leaves will be thinly layered and sun-dried in the late afternoon, around 4:00-5:00pm. The next step is withering and fermentation. This is a complicated and most important procedure of production with specific temperature and humidity requirements. There are 5-6 repeats of drying, withering and oxidation, which begin in the evening and continue through dawn the next day. Following this are the stir-frying, rolling and baking steps, once again controlled by the tea master who will bring out the very best in each small batch. Each of the batches will differ in quality and consequently in value. This brings us the one you are trying, Song Zhong Wang, which means ‘King of Song Dynasty Kind’. During the Song Dynasty, 900 years ago this type of tea tree was discovered and named. In fact, there is a story for the name. It is said that one emperor of the Song Dynasty, named Zhao Rui, passed by Phoenix Mountain. He felt very, very thirsty, so his attendants picked some tea leaves, beak like in shape and cooked them into a soup. When the emperor drank it, he felt very healthy and no longer thirsty. So this kind of tea became a ‘Tribute’ tea. The most important factor now in its fame is that it is picked from ancient, wild tea trees, over six hundred years old. It has a unique and powerful fragrance with a fruity, refreshing and light flavour. I should also mention that remarkably these teas can all be brewed numerous times, offering up ten or so infusions of changing character when made Gong Fu style!